illness as metaphor and the handmaid's tale

Illness as Metaphor and AIDS and its Metaphors belong in that Eichmann in Jerusalem or The Death and Life of Great American Cities category of staggeringly clear thinking and argumentation that has the voice of rigorous academic authority without needing to bother with academic evidence. The Sontag pieces are dated, although to be fair she predicted that they would be. In fact, the temporariness of the metaphors is part of the point: Things are scariest when we don't understand them, and once we do their power as metaphors dissipates. Cancer is less frightening than it was in the 1970s, and AIDS is less frightening now than it was 25 years ago. They are both still terrifying diseases, but cancer in particular carries less moral weight than it used to.

The Handmaid's Tale is a work of genius. Beautifully written, gripping, terrifying, insightful. I said this on FB the other day but it's almost hard to believe it's by the same author who wrote Oryx and Crake, which is, by comparison, clumsy and clunky and not all that interesting.

telegraph avenue and madeleine l'engle

I liked Kavalier and Clay and Maps and Legends was okay, but Telegraph Avenue I had to put down. I wish I meant that in the put to sleep sense. It's a bad book: overwritten, boring, and forced in the way I thought Empire Falls was, just more so. Empire Falls was okay.

Following that unceremonious dumping, I have begun my quest to read nothing but women authors for the remainder of the year by re-reading the three childhood classics that make up Madelein L'Engle's Time trilogy. They're terrific books, imaginative and strongly moral without being preachy, clearly written for children but not patronizing. Meg Murry, the heroine, is an ordinary child: good at math but not much else, stubborn to the point of stupidity, prone to tantrums and sulking. At one point in A Wind in the Door I actually yelled at her, out loud. But that makes her all the more appealing. She's not superhuman, but she's brave and she struggles even when the going gets very, very tough. I'll finish A Swiftly Tilting Planet in the next couple of days and then move on to either The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas or The Handmaid's Tale (I'm not usually that taken with Atwood's writing but the opening line of this one is EXTREMELY promising).

the blood telegram

A fantastically well-reported and well-researched account of a forgotten dark moment in post-WW2 US foreign policy. Dark in the sense of fraught with evil and tragedy, but also in the sense that the moment was murky and full of ambiguity.

Above everything else, it's an enlightening portrait of the mechanics of highest-level foreign policy: how important personal relationships are, how dependent policy and even war between giant nations can be on whether two or three or four individuals trust each other. And also, how easy it is to put blinders on and do a bunch of bad stuff when you have a huge goal in mind. Nixon and Kissinger end up looking like callous, racist assholes, but throughout the book you can see their reasoning. And it is not fundamentally bad reasoning, in its way. They wanted the opening to China, and they settled on General Yahya Khan. Nixon liked him and hated Indira Gandhi, despite the fact that Yahya was a brutal moron. And Yahya played his role well. The opening worked and was a high point of Nixon's presidency. The fact that working toward that end helped set the US firmly against any kind of intervention or even light pressure on Pakistan to stop systematically massacring hundreds of thousands of its own citizens entered Nixon and Kissinger's consciousness only as an annoyance.

Meanwhile, the astoundingly-named Consul General Archer Blood and his eponymous telegram are a window into what can be done -- and what can't -- by individuals with a very different set of values and a very different perspective from the big guns at the top.

I haven't even gotten to the fascinating peek into Gandhi's government. Suffice it to say that I learned a lot.

i am the beggar of the world: landays from contemporary afghanistan

A collection of landays, a traditional form of poetry written or recited by Pashtun women. They're always two lines long and have a specific syllabic structure, although it's basically impossible for that to be translated. The editor's commentary was usually interesting and non-invasive, and some of the poems were really thought-provoking and occasionally beautiful. The book is divided into thematic sections, and by far the biggest one is "Love" -- although that often seems to mean sex! Because the poems are by women and for women only, they're often incredibly frank about, say, masturbation. Really cool to get that small peek into a world that is very, very closed off to a Western man.

shadow and claw

The first two volumes of The Book of the New Sun are The Shadow of the Torturer and The Claw of the Conciliator. Gene Wolfe came highly recommended by my old friend Josh. I'd never heard of him but I enjoyed these books a lot. Wickedly imaginative world, good writing. Not going in the pantheon for me but very enjoyable, well, summer reading. I bought the third and fourth volumes (they're bound in sets of two) for the beach. 

the lathe of heaven

Backs up its wonderful title by being a wonderful story. LeGuin manages to have very strong moral messages without overtly moralizing (well, usually). That's true of A Wizard of Earthsea and The Left Hand of Darkness, as well as this book. The depth of her imagination helps, and her compassion for her characters. The villain in Lathe is not evil but tragic, in the classical sense that he is hubristic to a fault. And the protagonist, as in A Wizard of Earthsea, comes to his heroism and strength by way of modesty and wisdom rather than a great capacity for action or leadership.

***SPOILER ALERT***

Just one example of LeGuin's prodigious imagination and ability to recast old tropes to tell new stories: Her vision for an alien invasion of Earth, in which the initial alien attack on human bases on the Moon is a mistake, an attempt on their part to communicate before they understand that our communication with each other is verbal. They land on Earth without weapons, truly coming in peace, and we freak out, bombing everything in sight and even nuking Mount Hood to the point where it erupts. But the aliens are basically indestructible, and only once they figure out that they have to communicate with us in spoken words and then invent a way to imitate our speech are they able to settle us down. Eventually they just quietly integrate into human society, walking among us and owning small shops and other businesses. Awe-inspiring.

murphy

By Samuel Beckett. I didn't get it. I understood the plot and a few of the jokes but throughout I had the sense that there was a lot zipping right over my head. Beckett's prose is beautiful and poetic even when I don't understand the meaning. And sometimes I didn't even understand the superficial meaning, let alone what he was actually saying! The vocabulary alone is dizzying, not something I say often.

will you please be quiet, please?

Pretty brilliant, although to be honest I could have done without a couple of stories. Chandler gets predictable at times, with the way his characters behave and what he wants you to understand about them. That said, the bright spots in this book are incredible. I think my favorite stories are the first and last. The first, which I think is just called "Fat," just woke me right up. I'd just put down The Gifts of the State and the gap between his mastery and theirs was just so apparent from the first couple of pages. And the last story, for which the book is named, is beautiful and sad. A lot of the stories are, I suppose, but the title story is just the most poignant.

In fact, if I had to choose a single word to describe the book, I might go with "poignant."

I didn't enjoy it as much as Appointment in Samarra, although they're not as similar as I was expecting. O'Hara's great themes, to me, are solipsism and even narcissism and the way those can cloud our view of the world around us and our place in it; our smallness in the universe; and the damage that we can do if we don't manage to step back and understand who we are and where we are. Chandler's stories are all about self-discovery, and how brutal that process can be. His characters are smaller than O'Hara's, wrestling with subtler demons. 

Still, I'm drawn to the comparison. Maybe it's just that both men wrote about middle-class semi-urban Americans in the mid-twentieth century, and that both have a bleak outlook. 

the gifts of the state: new writing from afghanistan

This is a collection of stories by Afghans under the age of 30, written in English under the guidance of a guy named Adam Klein. They are very affecting, sometimes strange, sometimes horrifying, often but not always sad. I just started Will You Please Be Quiet, Please and already it's easy to see how much greater Carver's genius is than that of these writers. But that's not a fair comparison and it misses the point: The Gifts of the State is awesome because it humanizes and provides the kind of deep context for Afghanistan that's probably only achievable through fiction.

a wizard of earthsea

Read in like two days. Such a wonderful story. Will read Tombs of Atuan at least later this year, I don't think I've ever read it. 

book update

Feminism is for Everybody was a good read. Not much that I didn't know or believe already. For the most part hooks doesn't concern herself with evidence, sticking with unqualified declarations. That's fine for the most part -- it makes the book easy to read and comprehend, which is a big part of her stated aim, and many of her observations are common-sensical enough not to need much backup -- but she makes some questionable assertions. These are irritating because they rarely do anything to strengthen her arguments, even at face value, and they serve to weaken the book by causing even a very sympathetic reader to doubt her.

Now I'm in the midst of reading The Gifts of the State: New Afghan Writing, a collection of short stories by Afghans under 30 years old, which came out of a series of workshops held in Kabul by an American writer whose name I forget. So far, they are wonderful. More on that when I'm done. I'm also going to start picking my way through a collection of landays, traditional Afghan poems, called I Am the Beggar of the World, as I continue to work my way through the Auden collection next to the bed.

Yesterday, I took off work and did a bunch of stuff. Among that stuff was going to Kramerbooks while waiting to get my hair cut, and buying four books. So I'm now re-reading A Wizard of Earthsea, because it has been too long. Frankly I'd forgotten a lot of it. I was going to pick up the second and/or third book(s) in the trilogy but decided I should reacquaint myself with Ged first.

Also got:
- The Lathe of Heaven, which I started listening to on tape with Mom many (10+) years ago, but which I don't remember finishing. It's on the "best titles/names" list. Lathe, what a beautiful word. What can I say, I was in a Le Guin mood yesterday.
- Murphy, by Samuel Beckett. It's about time I read me a Beckett novella. Don't know much about any of them but the first page of this one was wonderful so there you go.
- Will You Please Be Quiet, Please? by Raymond Carver. Same as the Beckett: It's just time. I loved Appointment in Samarra, which is contemporaneous with Carver and which I imagine to be similar. Should be interesting to see whether my pre-formed impression of Carver as being in O'Hara's company.

a delicate truth

John LeCarre's latest, from last year. As I put it to C: JLC books are like candy to me. I'm happy to go months and months without but if you put a bag of Skittles next to me they're going down the hatch in short order. I read the book in basically two sittings: 60 pages on the MARC on Friday and 250 pages after getting home last night. Did not get enough sleep as a consequence. Moron.

It's not a great book, not on par with Tinker, Tailor or The Spy Who Came in From the Cold. Lots of people can craft page-turners. I don't even think it's that hard. Dan Brown can do it. But not many authors I've read can combine the potboiler, page-turner narrative with such strong writing and believable characters as JLC.

Plus it's a book after my own political heart, a lamentation about the privatization of warfare and intelligence gathering and the hideous consequences that has.

found poetry

There's a guy on the forum where I log my workouts who is an aspiring sprinter. He is an odd and sometimes really frustrating person to interact with, not least because his grasp of English appears limited. For a while I thought he was a troll but now I just think he's young, a nonnative speaker, and preternaturally stubborn. But his analysis of each of his workouts can be a trip and a half. Here is a recent example, which is completely unedited except for the line breaks and title.

"Fast again," by seifullaah73 and LBSS (me)

It was a nice day
slight wind from north direction, which be
hitting me from the side and it was a good day as
I found
Something, which had caused to start feeling fast
during the runs compared to the last 2 weeks.
I found
out that I hadn't fully mastered the arm
Swing yet, not in the run but from start to driving out.
I found
that before I was swinging fast when I come out,
but this time I focussed on exploding out first then swinging arms
fast and I felt
fast again,
which was good.

"Grey Cloud," by seifullaah73 and LBSS

It was a sort of grey
cloud slightly sunny day
and very strong wind not
only was it strong enough
to be close to push someone
off their feet but it was a
head wind, when I was running
not only was I running
a slight hill I was running
into this strong wind getting
stronger the further I went
it reduced my speed to a jog
pace, that hard so it was
a good resisted training.

"Approach," by seifullaah73 and vag (another guy on the forum who's gotten into it)

It was again a nice hot sunny day,
I did my warm ups as usual,
my a skip and b skip are much better,
as the more you do it the more you can adjust to
what feels right.

After I finished resting before third rep,
people came in the pitch to play about,
so i was about to move to another side of the field,
until when i was about to start,

they started leaving,
I approach the normal place,
they stall a bit,
so I am thinking

are they leaving, until they leave,
they decided to use astroturf,
which people play football that go to the school nearby,
short pitch,
I rejoice

do the third rep and finish off with 2 reps,
which I do one after the other like a tempo,
120m run,
120m walk,
120m run.

devil in the grove

An enraging and gripping book about an under-remembered chapter in the history of 20th-century white supremacy and civil rights. Been thinking about white supremacy a lot recently, thanks in part to Ta-Nehisi Coates's string of wonderful pieces on the subject. This book fit right into that groove. Gilbert King is an excellent reporter and storyteller and his characters are larger than life, perfect avatars for this country's hideous history of white violence against blacks and blacks' constant struggle to assert their humanity in the face of overwhelming prejudice.

Reading this book and thinking about Trayvon Martin, Jordan Davis, Renisha McBride, and other recent murder victims -- and about the infinite other forms that racism takes every day in America -- reminds me of that Faulkner quote, "The past is never dead. It's not even past." 

thinking about retirement

One of the ideas that's seized my imagination in the past two weeks is waste management and recycling. The case for opening a solid waste management center in Khorog is really strong on paper. There's a lot of trash there right now that isn't effectively collected, and what is collected is either burned or goes to a landfill that's already full. With a modest investment (something like $5.5 million) you could set up trash cans and dumpsters, buy a couple of trucks, build a new landfill, and build a small sorting facility that splits glass, plastic and metal out from the rest of the trash. There's a huge market for bulk recycled materials in China, which is right over the border to the east. Everybody wins, like with run-of-the-river hydropower.

Doing some research on that led me to the US recycling industry and made me curious what it'd take to do, for example, household-level material processing. Why couldn't people have a little machine in their house, like a trash compactor, that cuts up their plastic and metal and crushes their glass? Or if household level is too small to be cost-effective, what about smaller plants, like the one described above, for places in the States where no one has bothered to set up a processing facility yet but which don't justify the larger-scale plants that seem to be the norm there? What's the business case there? I'm reminded of a guy who came by our office last year to talk about his company, Blue Lotus, which sets up liquid natural gas plants next to food processing factories and uses the food scrap to make the biogas.

Stuff like that is really appealing to me (I mean, who wouldn't that appeal to?), much more so than a lot of the NGO stuff that's my current bread and butter. Grass is always greener, of course, but it makes me reeeeally curious about career opportunities on the other side.

Thinking about business also made me think about my own investments, such as they are. I've got a 401k through work, to which I contribute alongside my employer, but it's limited and I'm a bit dubious about how much they're charging us. Need to find out about that. But in any event, I think I'd like to set up a Roth IRA or some other kind of index fund investment, stick some money in it, and switch my contributions to that from my 401k. I like the idea of paying taxes now in order to avoid paying them later. Using those compound interest calculators, starting with $3000, contributing $400/month (which is what I currently put into my 401k), assuming a 9% annual return (the 25-year average of the S&P 500 for the 25 years leading up to 2011 was 9.28%) over 35 years gives me $1.2 million when I hit 62. More to the point, annual interest on that is $102K. What the hell am I waiting for?

Back to work.

pacquiao-bradley

Benefit of being overseas: Pacquiao-Bradley is not on PPV, it's on the 24-hour boxing/MMA channel in the hotel room. I don't always watch boxing, but when I do, it's a fight this big. Just ended, Bradley thinks he won, I don't think he won. Neither do the judges. Unanimous for Manny. Revenge.

Yesterday ended up being nice. I did a little work in the morning and then met BS for lunch at Segafreddo -- the restaurant takes its name from the coffee brand -- and had pasta (!!!) and a salad and a beer. And two cappuccinos. Then we went across the street to TsUM, the main mall here. I was vaguely looking to buy a suzani, the traditional Tajik embroidered decorative blanket. Aaaand I found one. Here's a few pics of the mall, and my new suzani at the end. (Click to embiggen.)

Beate also lent me her movie hard drive, so I watched "The Usual Suspects" for the first time since high school last night. That movie is almost 20 years old, kind of hard to believe.

Today I'm going to write the bulk of my trip report and continue to work on the proposal. Will take a break to watch "True Detective" at some point and then at 7 NK is coming by and we're going to walk over to some place nearby for dinner and a beer. Then it'll be pack, nap, wake, plane.

The weekend has not been as bad as I feared. Turns out things get easier when you start to develop relationships with people and can actually break up the hotel room time with sustained interactions with others. Couple of other notes on the trip:

1. I am going to get a Kindle. They're just too practical. It sucked finishing one book and then having with me just one other, which I don't like all that much.
2. I get too much screen time. My attention span is shorter than it was, I'm sure of it, and there are loads of productive things I could be doing but don't because it's easier to channel flip or read articles online. Don't get me wrong, there are some great things on TV and some amazing writing shooting through the intertubes, but enough is enough. I resolve to spend less time watching TV and less time online at home when I get back to the States.
3. Here are a few things I'm excited for when I get back: "Captain America 2: The Winter Soldier"; the cherry blossoms; reading some books, including Their Eyes Were Watching God, by Zora Neale Hurston, Feminism is for Everybody, by bell hooks, The Nature of Things, by Lucretius, The Gifts of the State and Other Stories, by a collection of Afghan writers, and so many others; milkshakes; seeing C; seeing all my friends who I haven't seen in WEEKS.

That's all for now, better be a little productive. Unfortunately that means more screen time. C'est la vie. 

t-minus the weekend

The admin ladies don't like my beard. A couple of days ago I walked out of the elevator into the AKDN lobby and the CEO's assistant (V) was chatting with the women who sit at the front desk. V pointed at one of them and said, "She doesn't like your beard," and they all giggled. Being reminded that, much as you talk about other people when they're not there, other people talk about you when you're not there, is an odd mixture of embarrassing and thrilling.

This afternoon I had a long chat with my colleague BS about HR among the teams out here. Some serious gaps in gender sensitivity and general management capacity, along with the traditional (for us) deficits in donor relations. These latter are caused by the feeling that we are extraordinarily special and donors should be pleased that we deign to take their money. Won't get into too much detail but it was good to talk about, not least because I think we can help them with some of it. I think she found it a bit of a relief to just unload, which is rarely a bad thing.

Now I enter the long weekend of boredom in the hotel. It's supposed to rain all weekend, which doesn't help. Otherwise I might have tried to line up a day trip out to somewhere or other. I do have some work to do and will see about eating at least a couple of meals with other people, but for the most part I'm going to be counting down the hours until 3:45 AM on Monday, when a car will take me to the airport.

dream

Last night I had a dream, in which my colleague IS, J and I were standing at the lip of a huge canyon. Picture the Grand Canyon, but with yellower stone and formations like a combination of Bryce Canyon and Arches National Park. We realized that, because of some special circumstance we were in, we could jump off the lip and crash through the formations without hurting ourselves or experiencing any pain. So that's what we did. It was incredibly exhilarating, bouncing off rocks and laughing, breathlessly, and then jumping down to another level. We never reached the bottom.

tired

Tired.

A couple of hours from now I'm going to have a check-in call with the powers that be in DC. What I'd like to do is vegetate in front of the TV until then but I don't think that's an option. Too many emails to write and things to read. No rest for the weary. I am earning my comp days on this trip.

pushing through

Tuesday is drawing to a close. I just got back from the gym, where I got in a good workout. I've been thinking about workout planning for the spring and summer. I'm very close to dunking a basketball: a good day and one well-timed lob and I'm pretty sure I could get one down. So jumping will continue to be the focal point, but now that it's nice out I'd like to get back to sprinting. There are races in late May, June, and July, and I'm going to run the 100m (and maybe 200m) in at least one of them, just to see. Figuring out an ambitious but doable workout scheme is a fun diversion.

Today was one decent meeting after another. I say decent, I guess what I mean is that each meeting seemed worthwhile and productive, therefore not bad, but not overwhelmingly positive or exciting.

AKF USA's webmail was out all weekend and through my day yesterday. One of my colleagues in DC, bless her, called the IT people yesterday after I went to bed and everything was working this morning. I took a few minutes between meetings and then a few hours after I got back to my room to go through everything and I feel at least somewhat up to date, which is great.

Not terribly much else to report, it's 9 PM and I haven't yet eaten dinner, so I'm going to cut things off there.

 

a walk

It's cool out and I felt well enough a bit earlier to venture out of the hotel. I asked a woman at the front desk where I might find a pharmacy and a place to buy DVDs that aren't dubbed into Russian. She, very sweetly, said, "Sir, it would be my pleasure to accompany you but I am on my shift." I hadn't asked her to accompany me! She told me she worked during the week at a nonprofit supported by Counterpart and USAID that works with women, and that the hotel job she does to make some extra money and to practice English. The best stores are apparently in a mall called Tsum or something like that, but it's closed on Sundays. Her weekday office is there, though, and she suggested that I come by so she could take me to the DVD store. In the meantime, she wrote a note in Russian saying I was looking for subtitled, rather than dubbed, movies and I was on my way.

Rudaki had remarkably few cars on it, but still, as I was approaching the park a black Land Cruiser smashed into a silver Mercedes, which spun around and went crashing through the low stone wall that lines the island running down the middle of the avenue. I was about 50 meters away. This, needless to say, was loud and drew a crowd. But the cops yelled at anyone who got close and seemed to get things sorted pretty quickly. No one was hurt, the Mercedes driver hopped out right away. Still, a pretty spectacular accident.

Right by the intersection where the accident happened I found a "chemsit's" and was able to pick up a thermometer (which doesn't work, haha) and some nail clippers for $2 total. I bought an ice cream bar - vanilla with dark chocolate candy coating - a bit further down the road and went into a couple of DVD/video game stores that I knew were next to Salaam Namaste, the Indian place that's becoming my go-to for lunch during the week. I'd been in one of them before to change money. Didn't have to use the note that my helpful friend at the hotel front desk wrote out because the selection in the stores was atrocious. It was funny, though, the DVDs were clearly pirated. Most had multiple movies on them, organized primarily by star. Obviously there were pictures, but it was fun to look at the transliterations, too. Helped me figure out one of the Cyrillic letters I hadn't been able to remember: "ж." It's "zh." So the Brad Pitt DVD had "Meet Joe Black," "Troy," "Inglorious Bastards," and two or three other movies on it. There were Jason Statham, John Travolta, Angelina Jolie, Anthony Hopkins, and Julia Roberts collections, among others. But not a whole lot that drew my interest. Oh well. Ah, one funny thing: The Johnny Depp collection said "джони деп: секс симбол," which is just a transliteration of "Johnny Depp: Sex Symbol." The picture on the front was him as Jack Sparrow.

Needless to say, I kept my money in my pocket.

On the way back I ran into my old friend Noor, who recently found out that he'd gotten into the master's program at Hopkins SAIS. I'd written a recommendation letter for him last year, so was very excited to hear about his success when he wrote me a couple of weeks ago. I also wrote him a letter for a scholarship application that'll enable him to go to DC for the program, if he gets it. It was nice to see him, his face lit up when he made eye contact with me and got past the beard, and he gave me a big hug. If I have to stay through next weekend I'll probably meet up with him for a drink or something. The next few days are going to be too busy.

Anyway, it was overcast and cool, a nice day for a walk, and it felt good to get fresh air and move around a bit. I'm still a bit out of it but I think I'll be better by tomorrow. I should do some work before bed tonight, but we'll see how I feel.

the first week

Feels like time has passed more quickly this week than on typical trips. That's partly because work has been really busy and productive: days filled with meetings and nights filled with writing and talking with people back in DC. I'm pretty tired as I write this so I'm going to keep it short, but I'll put up a few words tomorrow about the highlights.

***NEXT DAY***

So it turns out I was getting sick last night and that's why the above is a bit incoherent and stupid-sounding. I woke up with a pounding headache this morning and had a hard time eating breakfast, and it's definitely not from the two light beers I had last night with M from Geneva. Come to think of it, I started feeling woozy before I went to bed. I feel a bit better now, well enough to make eye contact with the computer screen, of course. Must have been something I ate last night, although other than feeling a bit sensitive this morning I didn't have any GI problems. It's not dehydration, as I've been drinking plenty of water.

Anyway, it's been a pretty eventful week, as my babble from last night indicates. The highlight was probably Friday morning, when I joined a high-level meeting at the Ismaili Center that started with a tour of the place. It is a spectacularly good place to introduce someone to the Network: beautiful, and grand in a way that really stands out from the tacky, cheap-looking architecture that's the norm here for important buildings. "Look what we can build, look how committed we are to this place." Meanwhile the world's largest chaikhona (tea house) is going in across the street and it is a deliriously ugly building.

A colleague (friend? she's invited me over for a group dinner so perhaps I can say friend at this point) from AID invited me out last night, to a new night spot here called the Cotton Club, but I didn't make it due to the aforementioned wooziness. Still, it was nice to get out of my room and hang out with M a bit without talking about work at all. And it was nice to be invited, gives me hope for next weekend not being pure pain just waiting to get out of here. M and I ended up talking over coffee this morning, as well, as I tried to will away my headache.

In other news, Kentucky and UConn are playing in the NCAA tournament final, a fact which depresses me slightly. I'm going to try to get out today, maybe see if I can find a couple of movies to watch that are subtitled, rather than dubbed. And I'll have to do some work, as well, writing up a meeting note and starting to put together the framework that the pieces of the proposal that I'm expecting to come in this week will hang on.

That's it for now, I guess. Still a bit out of it.

the first day

Well, first full day, anyway. Slept pretty well last night, all things considered. No trouble falling back asleep after the middle-of-the-night bathroom break. Count it as a win.

Today was meetings from 8:45 until 5:30, with a break for lunch, then work from 6 until just now (~10:30) with a break for dinner. I was supposed to talk with R but he got sidetracked and then asked an hour ago when I was planning to be done. I said, in effect, as soon as possible and that I hadn't yet eaten dinner. He stopped after that. Not sure if because I made it clear that I was tired or because he got distracted. It's hard to be polite with him sometimes.

Despite their length, the meetings today were actually really productive. The folks around the table had never sat down together before to discuss what's going to be a fairly complicated piece of the project - starting up a mobile money system in very rural areas - and there was a lot to discuss. Mark, who's in from Geneva to help facilitate this piece, did a very good job keeping things on track and moving along. We finished exactly at 5:30, as planned. More to go over tomorrow and there will be lots of questions as we get into the nitty-gritty details, but today focused things well.

I am the kind of person who does better on a tight time schedule. I dislike stringing work out and am much more productive when things are compressed with lots of intermediate steps. Actually, that last bit suggests a maybe-obvious but heretofore-unthought-of-by-me strategy for improving my working habits: Lots of very rigid intermediate deadlines. Food for thought.

Also, I'm reading some more Borges, a collection called "The Maker" that consists mostly of very, very short stories - a page or page-and-a-half on average, I'd say. Here's an example, called "Argumentum Ornithologicum":

I close my eyes and see a flock of birds. The vision lasts a second, or perhaps less; I am not sure how many birds I saw. Was the number of birds definite or indefinite? The problem involves the existence of God. If God exists, the number is definite, because God knows how many birds I saw. If God does not exist, the number is indefinite, because no one can have counted. In this case I saw fewer than ten birds (let us say) and more than one, but did not see nine, eight, seven, six, five, four, three, or two birds. I saw a number between ten and one, which was not nine, eight, seven, six, five, etc. That integer--not-nine, not-eight, not-seven, not-six, not-five, etc.--is inconceivable. Ergo, God exists.

 Love that.

Time for some benadryl, some more Borges, and sleep. Hoping to talk to C tomorrow morning.

a discovery

Came back up to my room from breakfast to find that the cleaning lady had opened one of my windows. I did not know that the windows at the Serena opened. Good news.

In other news, the trip over was unremarkable apart from me putting my benadryl in my checked bag and therefore having more trouble sleeping on the IAD-IST leg than I should have, and the most insistently loud baby I've ever been near on a flight squawking and crying and burbling for four and a half hours on the IST-DYU flight. Thank goodness for ear plugs.

In Istanbul I hung out with Mark and Mike in the Turkish Airlines lounge after a prolonged search for some wi-fi in the main part of the terminal. It was available only in the food court...for $15. Yeesh. Luckily Mark was on Skype and I asked him to let me in as a guest to the business lounge. Free food, free wine, free wifi. And quiet.

Now it's off the office for round one of meetings. Not sure I've ever had less idea what to expect from a trip.

the aleph

Borges's imagination was just on another level - not many people can pull off obvious allegories and metaphors, overtly surrealist imagery, with such gripping stories. The translation I read is very good; someday I'd like to try the original Spanish but a few of the stories would be indecipherable at anything below real fluency.

stoner

Finished John Williams's book Stoner last night. It's a mercilessly sad book, beautifully written. Not feeling coherent enough right now to write more, but it definitely made an impression.

postwar

Finally finished Postwar, by Tony Judt. Took well over a month, but boy was it worth it. The book is a clear, authoritative overview of a history I know a little bit about from my solipsistic American viewpoint. It's not going in my pantheon of favorite books or anything, but it's the kind of meat-and-potatoes reading that I feel makes me a better person.

To continue with a variant on that metaphor for a minute, it hangs some meat on the bones of what I knew about Europe after WWII. For example, I knew Lech Walesa was a major figure in the anti-Communist movement in Poland. But I probably couldn't have told you what Solidarity was, really, or that his politics weren't exactly all kumbaya. I knew Francois Mitterand was president of France at some point, but I didn't know how slippery he was, how effective he was as a politician of his own personality.

Great read.

a funny realization

MJ and RK both emailed back with comments on the draft I finished and sent around 12:15 this morning. I appreciate the quick turnaround and it means I can get stuff to the teams here before I embark on the journey home. It does mean that I have to work now, but that's okay. I'm having a bit of trouble focusing. After hitting "publish" on my last post, I watched an entire 12.5km biathlon race (just over 30 minutes), attempted to nap (just over 30 minutes) and now have spent the past hour editing the draft in extremely distracted fashion. Many breaks to check Facebook, read articles, check the start times of the NFC and AFC championship games (if I'm awake at 1 AM and can find a decent feed I'll be able to watch kickoff of the former), read other articles, check Facebook again, etc. Chalk it up to a week straight of work and boredom: my mind is a-wandering.

Back to work in a second, but I wanted to add a funny observation I made this afternoon that had eluded me until today: Almost no one here wears glasses. I took my contacts out and switched to glasses before leaving for the museum earlier and the act of putting them on alerted me to the fact that pretty much no one on the street, none of the staff of the hotel (except the manager, who's Pakistani-Canadian), none of my Tajik colleagues - nobody wears them. It's curious. Too bad I'm leaving so soon or I'd ask someone here about it.

museum of national antiquities

Well, I just figured out what's on the agenda for tomorrow. Apparently the Museum of National Antiquities is a treasure and not to be missed, and it's around the corner from the Serena. Or so says the internet. We'll see what actually happens tomorrow. But now I've got a reason to get out of bed in the morning. Cool.

UPDATE: Sunday afternoon - 19 January

The Museum of National Antiquities absolutely ruled. I was the only visitor there when I arrived. You have to take your shoes off or wear plastic booties to walk around, I guess to save on vacuuming costs. It's a pretty big place and mostly unheated, and they're very electricity-conscious. A young woman stayed in range of me the whole time, turning on lights in rooms ahead and turning them off behind me. She sang Koranic verses quietly to herself pretty much the whole time I was on the ground floor. The museum is medium-sized, certainly not small: a main hall with a little gift shop on one side and then five or five-and-a-half display rooms with many cases in each. There are thousands of artifacts on display, organized roughly chronologically. The ground floor starts about 4500 BCE and works its way clockwise to the 8th century CE, then things pick up in the 9th century CE on the second floor and end about the 15th century.

The curation is a bit strange: They don't seem to be very discriminating about what goes in the cases. If we have twenty little clay horse figurines that are all more or less the same, what the hey, let's put 'em all in there. The displays can also be quite crude. The jewelry and coins and other small items are mounted on rough blocks of packing styrofoam, some of the pottery is pretty roughly plastered together, and a few of the pieces have permanent marker right on them!

But there's also a lot of interesting information, some of it even in English, and there's some pretty arresting stuff. For example:
1. A complete human skeleton, partially unburied but otherwise in dirt, found with bracelets and other jewelry on in a tomb in the southern part of the country
2. A tiny bronze statue from ca. 300 BCE of a man playing a flute on a small pedestal, which the wall copy explained was an altar to the Marsiya, a Greek river god.
3. Many, many other items from a fort and temple that housed #2, called Takht-e Sangin. The temple was dedicated to Oxus, god of the Amu Darya River. There were beautifully carved bone and ivory flutes and scabbards next to a bunch of the nails and door knockers from the ruins. Central Asia spent a good chunk of its history as a stage in a major trade route, and the syncretism between the Bactrian and Greek cultures 2000+ years ago (and later with Hindu/Buddhist and finally Islamic cultures) is obvious.
4. Speaking of Hindu/Buddhist, there's a huge statue of Shiva, missing the top of its torso and head. Probably seven feet across at the base.
5. On the stairs to the second floor, there's a life-sized statue of a prone lion that used to have a goddess sitting on it. In her place there's a weirdly primitive painting of what she must have looked like, together with the rest of the lion.
6. Beautiful wall paintings from thousand-year-old buildings depicting scenes of people hunting and relaxing.
7. Black and dark grey toaster-oven-sized stones covered in etched Arabic script.

But the coup de grace is the statue of Buddha. In the first room to the left after you climb to the second floor, it is literally stunning - it stopped me in my tracks. The Buddha, reclining with his eyes closed and a peaceful look on his face, is 42 feet long and nine feet high at the shoulders. He is beautifully rendered, with supple folds in the fabric of his tunic and carefully carved hair. The statue was discovered in the '60s and finally restored by the government of Tajikistan, together with ACTED and some other international experts, about 12 years ago. It's all the more breathtaking because the room in is itself only about 50 feet long and 12 feet high. The statue fills and dominates the space. It is awesome.

So I feel like I got my 20 somoni's worth (about $4).

Now I'm back in the Serena, thinking I was going to be clever and download a movie to watch, but it's going to take longer to download than I have hours left in this room. Some stuff at work blew up at the end of this past week and continues to explode today. I won't go into detail, none of it is directly related to me, but it's quite embarrassing for a number of the people involved.

Guess I'll read a bit, maybe take a nap, go to the gym, who knows what-all. Pack, of course. My flight's tomorrow morning at 6:30 AM, and 22 hours and change later I'll land at 6:45 PM. The strange miracle of rapid intercontinental travel. 

not writing, cobbling together

The boss-man is an atrocious writer, without any sense of flow or organization. He can think through an argument well enough and what we're trying to put together isn't that complicated, but his written word vomit is pretty terrible, even when edited. This is particularly irritating when it replaces something coherent that I'd written previously.

Also, the worst part about working alone in a faraway land on the weekend is that there's no one to complain to. Hence the whine above, for which I apologize.

writing day

Caught Claire before she fell asleep this morning (her night, obviously), which was good. Breakfast with Alim, a bit of lazing around, and now I'm going to head downstairs and get to writing and editing. Hopefully this doesn't take more than four hours, but we'll see.

There was a major attack on a restaurant in Kabul last night. It's called Taverna; I've eaten there six or seven times. A suicide bomber blew himself up out front and then two accomplices sneaked in through the back door and started shooting people. Fourteen or more killed, mostly expats, unsure how many wounded. It's always sad when people are killed violently - this is no more sad than a wedding party being killed by a drone strike - but this is scarier and hits closer to home than other attacks because it's a place I'm well familiar with, that I have memories at. It's where the crazy dog lady who was feeding the strays food from the restaurant came over to our table and talked for forty-five minutes unbroken about the problems dogs face in Kabul and her work trying to get them adopted by Americans and other expats leaving Kabul for home. No one I know was at the restaurant during the attack, thank goodness.

That "thank goodness" always gives me pause. I know intellectually that the lives of my friends and colleagues are no more or less valuable than the lives of people I don't know, but obviously the death of someone I know would affect me much more deeply than a stranger's. Nothing unusual in that. But it still seems odd that it even occurs to me to say "thank goodness" in the aftermath of mass murder.

Anyway, on to work, time to close down the internet browser and buckle down. Here goes.

suprise visitors

Last night Yodgor invited me to dinner at the Chinese restaurant in the Hotel Tajikistan, which is right across the street from Rudaki Park. I walked into the weirdly spacious but low-ceilinged hotel lobby and who should be there but Dr. Najmiddin and Romin, the regional manager and deputy regional manager of AKF in Afghan Badakhshan. I'd met them both last year at the start-up workshop in Kabul. Lovely guys, and Romin has one of the greatest voices I've ever heard in person. Matter of fact, another top-ten voice, Shodmon, works for us here in Tajikistan. But Romin's voice is top-two for me. Deep but with unexpectedly high overtones and incredibly musical. The word mellifluous comes to mind. The food was whatever but it was great to sit around with those guys and Yodgor (and a few others) and hear about what's going on, what the potential is for Badakhshan and the border areas.

This morning I panicked briefly when I woke up to an email that my ticket change had gone from $300 to $1400, but MJ approved the change anyway, so panic subsided. I've spent the day catching up on normal work and going over updates to the MIAD proposal with the health and rural development teams. Need to call my colleague at FMFB to get his updates and education will come in tomorrow, by early afternoon if I'm lucky. Tonight and tomorrow will be spent integrating everything, creating the summary budget, and combining all the backup information for the summary budget (each department or agency has its own way of breaking things down). I should be able to get that out tomorrow and then take Sunday mostly off. Home on Monday!

more on names

I had lunch with Daler from PE yesterday and in the car on the way to the restaurant I asked him about names. Tajiks have some of the best names I know of: Oistamo, Dilafruz, Mehrafruz, Malohat, Dilovar, Khudoberdi, etc. Apparently Daler means "brave and skillful," Oistamo means "gentle moon," Dilafruz means "lights up the heart," Mehrafruz means something like, "polite heart." Malohat Daler didn't know, he thought it was Arabic. Didn't get to ask about Dilovar or Khudoberdi. Or Hakimbek or Nazarbek.

Names are fun.

trueblood

One of the guys who was in our meeting with State/AID yesterday is the head of the economic growth office for USAID Central Asia. His last name is Trueblood. After the meeting, as we were making our way back out of the embassy, I asked him if he was, by any chance, Quaker. He smiled and said that no one had asked him that question in a long time, but no, he was not. A relative of his had done some genealogical research and done the whole family tree and he was clearly really interested by it. He said he'd read Elton Trueblood's book many years ago and while in grad school in Minnesota had seen Elton speak right before he (Elton) died. And he maintains Elton Trueblood's Wikipedia page.

He clearly could have kept going - and he was so warm about the whole thing that I'd have loved to stay and keep talking with him about it - but the train was leaving the station. Oh well. A funny and unexpected side story on an otherwise pretty businesslike week.

net neutrality

http://www.juancole.com/2014/01/ruling-endangers-internet.html

This is terrible, terrible news.

an early return?

Today was more meetings, as expected. We started with education at 8:30. Very uncomplicated. Then I had a break while the senior people went off and talked amongst themselves, then US Embassy for a meeting wit the Deputy Chief of Mission and some USAID colleagues. Very nice, everyone on board, hurray hurray. 

The US Embassy is a horror show, a caricature of itself. It's way out on the outskirts of town. It's behind a bunch of high walls and pylons and has its own service road. To get there by car you have to go through a gate, then zigzag through huge road blocks, then go through an airlock-style double gate set in a 20-foot double wall. And that's only if you're a fancy person with diplomatic privileges, which I was today courtesy of the group I was with. Commoners have to get out of their cars before the first gate and walk to a guardhouse, then turn in their passports, get scanned, have escorts come meet them, etc. It's all a bit ridiculous in a small, relatively peaceful and low-crime country like this one. And it sends a pretty clear message of "FUCK YOU STAY THE FUCK BACK." The forest of satellite dishes and radio antennas on the roof doesn't do much to help the image, either.

And the building itself is hideous, a kind of pale yellow block with a pale grey block rising up to make the top floor. It's four or five stories tall and pretty big - at least 200 people work there, I think. There are no windows above the ground floor, just openings that look like industrial vents. I'm sure they're bombproof and all that. What a joke. The British embassy has tight security but at least it's in town and blends in with its surroundings. The Turkish embassy is quite beautiful and catty-corner from the Serena. Oh well, we are special.

After the meeting everyone split off to do various things. Beate and I went for lunch, which was quite nice. We had Indian at the place on Rudaki Avenue, Salaam Namaste. Butter chicken and garlic naan, mmm. This afternoon more agency-by-agency meetings to talk about health, access to finance, and the AKF Afghanistan work in Takhar and Kunduz, which across the river from the new districts for AKF Tajikistan. The last one in particular was good because I had no idea what we were doing there! I've been so focused on Badakhshan (and Baghlan to a lesser extent) since I started at AKF that I barely know which other provinces we work in. 

One of the upshots of the State/AID meeting today is that our timeline is a bit slower than we thought: They've specifically asked us not to start working on a full proposal until their internal budget is set. Originally I'd planned to spend next week writing a full first draft of the main documents (technical narrative, budget, budget notes). But since that's not happening I'm going to cram several days' worth of meetings into two days and get a new concept note done by Saturday or Sunday and then head home on Monday. Not a done deal yet but things are moving that direction. Here's hoping, even though that means the next three days will suck on a grand scale!

Sorry for such a boring post, the fun stuff I've learned in the last couple of days don't bear posting online, even on an anonymous blog. Off to the gym now (holy crap it's 8:30) and then more emails and then bed. And dinner.

meetings

I'm wiped out so this will be short.

Last night I went down to the weird New Year's thing (remember, it was January 13th). It was loud and dissonant, at least to my jet-lagged ear, so I stayed approximately 20 seconds before retreating to my room and getting room service.

Today was meetings wall-to-wall and then a call and other work when I got back to the Serena. The meetings were mixed: encouraging in the morning with DFID (who aren't involved yet but sound very enthusiastic and also have a reasonable amount of funding they'd like to dedicate to our project) and less encouraging in the evening with USAID (who are involved and enthusiastic but strapped for cash in Tajikistan and unable to give us all that much). In between a useful meeting with our sister agencies all together, which spelled out in detail just how difficult it's going to be to pull this program together given budget constraints.

That's all for now, MJ leaves tomorrow so hopefully I'll have a bit more energy for a longer post tomorrow or Thursday night.

back in the (former) ussr

I have discovered the secret to sleeping while sitting up: sleep for four or four and a half hours over the course of 48. Apparently that'll really knock you out, even in the middle of the afternoon on a bumpy road.

The trip over was mostly fine, despite my inability to sleep more than the aforementioned four hours on the IAD-IST flight. I watched "The Prestige," which was pretty good, and "No Country for Old Men," and read a lot of Postwar. MJ was able to get me into the business class lounge at IST, which is a huge step up from waiting among the commoners. Free food, free wine, comfortable chairs, limited crowd, and an awesome grand player piano plinking out soothing tunes. Gotta try to get Star Alliance Gold status this year.

In contrast, the IST-DYU flight sucked. I was in a middle seat and there were some serious screamers nearby. Not a wink of sleep. And while Postwar continued to be good, I watched "A Good Day to Die Hard," which was a step down from the movies on the IAD-IST leg. Oh well, whine whine.

Tajikistan then lived up to its Soviet history at immigration. I got my visa easily enough but then walked back out of the consulate to a snaking, amorphous line leading up to a single immigration officer, who took an almost unbelievably long time with each person. I'm talking up to five minutes each. I ended up just giving up and getting in the citizens-only line, which had two (still quite slow) officers. No one batted an eye at that. On the plus side, I met a really cute family from North Carolina who are here with Global Partners, the same outfit that employs the couple I met at the Khorog Serena in November. It's the service arm of the Wesleyan church, which is apparently pretty dang evangelical, but none of the GP people I've met have said word one about "exalting Jesus Christ." They're here doing humanitarian work, whatever that means in a country that's not in a state of emergency. Maybe they're proselytizing, I don't know. They do seem quite dedicated. This couple has been here eight years with three kids, the oldest of whom might have been nine.

So while the it took well over an hour to get through the not-very-long line, and I was tired, it could have been worse. As a British guy who switched to the citizens-only line right after I did pointed out, the Tajiks may be slow but everyone is in pretty good spirits. No one cursing anyone out or yelling, just kind of patiently going through the motions.

After checking into the hotel I had about 45 minutes before MJ wanted me to meet him for breakfast. You may be surprised to learn that this was mild thrill: I fully expected to have to be ready right away and was prepared not to even check in. But I showered, brushed my teeth, lay down and quasi-slept for half an hour. Then Yodgor came, and Beate, and a guy named Alim who is quite strategically placed in the Network, if I may be so vague.

Breakfast over, we drove three hours or so to Qumsangir, a district on the Tajik-Afghan border. We visited with the first deputy governor of the district (like a Chief Administrative Officer at the county level in the States) and some other senior officials, saw what's planned to be a Free Economic Zone next to the Panj River, went to a kindergarten and grade school with a proud library of 403 (!) books (including one by MAPK TBEN, aka Mark Twain). We are spoiled indeed in the USA. Lunch was actually quite tasty: Plov (rice pilaf), fried dough thing stuffed with potato, black tea, and salad that you could not have paid me to eat because I'm not trying to start this trip off with diarrhea if I can avoid it. We had a moment of excitement when an electrical fire started up right outside the window next to our table.

After lunch we had one last stop, with the jamat. This was a funny event: Men trickled in over the course of the hour or so that we were there so that by the end there were probably 50 there. The only women were Beate, who was with us and is German, and a woman who is the district superintendent of schools. This was disappointing and a little weird. But the superintendent made up for it partially by dominating the meeting. The dynamic in the room was really interesting. I'm frankly a little too tired right now to get into it but I will try to get some reflection down tomorrow.

On the drive home, I slept for probably an hour and a half of the three hour drive. A good hour of it was solid, too, not in-and-out dozing. Now I'm back in the hotel, barely compos mentis enough to get this post out. Russia TV is on in the background, informing me of all of the Russians who have a good chance to medal at Sochi. I'm going to go to the gym to get a bit of blood flow going and to stretch well. There's an oddly-timed New Year's celebration going on in the main hotel restaurant, with live music. Guess I should at least check it out.

More mañana.

blood meridian

The language is beautiful but I found myself caring not even a tiny amount about any of the characters or what might happen to them. I may try to pick it up again later but for now I'm moving on.

books read 2014

From now, gonna list books I don't finish with as x.5. They won't count toward totals but it'll be interesting to see how many I start and put down.

0.5 Blood Meridian, by Cormac McCarthy (partial)
1. Postwar, by Tony Judt
2. Stoner, by John Williams
3. The Giant, O'Brien, by Hilary Mantel
4. The Aleph, by Jorge Luis Borges
4.5. Selected Poems, by WH Auden (partial)
5. The Maker, by Jorge Luis Borges
6. The Swerve, by Stephen Greenblatt
7.5. The Call of Cthulu and Other Stories, by HP Lovecraft (partial)
7. Devil in the Grove, by Gilbert King
8. Their Eyes Were Watching God, by Zora Neale Hurston
9. A Delicate Truth, by John Le Carre.
10. Feminism is for Everybody: Passionate Politics, by bell hooks
11. A Wizard of Earthsea, by Ursula K. Le Guin
12. The Gifts of the State and Other Stories: New Writing from Afghanistan, ed. Adam Klein
13. Will You Please Be Quiet, Please? by Raymond Chandler
14. Harry Potter and the Methods of Rationality, by Eliezer Yudkowsky (ongoing serial, third time through to date and I skipped and skimmed a bit this time, counting as a full book because it's hundreds of thousands of words long by now)
15. Murphy, by Samuel Beckett
16. The Lathe of Heaven, by Ursula K. LeGuin
17. God Loves, Man Kills, by Chris Claremont
18. Shadow and Claw, by Gene Wolf (this is technically two volumes -- The Shadow of the Torturer and The Claw of the Conciliator -- but they're bound together, so counting it as one)
19. I Am the Beggar of the World: Landays from Contemporary Afghanistan, ed. Eliza Griswold
20. The Animal Family, by Randall Jarrell
21. The League of Extraordinary Gentlemen, by Alan Moore
22. The Map that Changed the World, by Simon Winchester (audiobook)
23. Fairy Tales from the Brothers Grimm, trans. Philip Pullman
24. The Blood Telegram, by Gary Bass
25. Sword and Citadel, by Gene Wolf
25.5 Telegraph Avenue, by Michael Chabon (partial)
26. A Wrinkle in Time, by Madeleine L'Engle
27. A Wind in the Door, by Madeleine L'Engle
28. A Swiftly Tilting Planet, by Madeleine L'Engle
29. Illness as Metaphor and AIDS and its Metaphors, by Susan Sontag
30. The Handmaid's Tale, by Margaret Atwood
31. In the Freud Archives, by Janet Malcolm
32. The Dispossessed, by Ursula K. Le Guin
33. Notes from No Man's Land, by Eula Biss
34. Beloved, by Toni Morrison
35. Wolf Hall, by Hilary Mantel (second time)
36. O Pioneers!, by Willa Cather
37. The Secret History, by Donna Tartt

bring up the bodies (cont'd)

I was looking at the Atlantic's list of its writers' and editors' favorite books read in 2013, and one of them put Bring Up the Bodies. And to point out why, the reviewer opened her blurb with this, a quotation taken more or less at random from the book and put into verse form:

These days are perfect.
The clear untroubled light picks out
Each berry shimmering in a hedge.
Each leaf of tree,
The sun behind it,
Hangs like a golden pear.

Riding westward in high summer,
We have dipped in sylvan chases
And crested the downs,
Emerging into that high country where,
Even across two counties,
You can sense the shifting presence of the sea.
In this part of England
Our forefathers the giants
Left their earthworks,
Their barrows and standing stones.

We still have, every Englishman and woman,
Some drops of giant blood in our veins.

books read 2010-2013

In the past four years I've read 95 books and will finish 2013 at 96 (Galapagos, by Kurt Vonnegut) or possibly 97 (TBD!) if I get some time to curl up over winter break. Didn't hit my 30-book target for 2013 but that's okay, I waded through a couple of very dense, very satisfying reads in Godel, Escher, Bach, Through the Eye of a Needle and Discipline and Punish.

That's not a ton but it's not too bad, a few points above the 80th percentile according to Pew, if you take my average (~24). In 2012 I was probably well into the 90s (28). Lower than I'd like and lower than I expected. Boo. GOTTA STEP UP MY GAME. I wanna see Pew's dataset -- how many books gets me into the 99th percentile? Also, I got into the habit earlier this year of jotting down some quick thoughts after finishing each book. I need to start again. It's a good habit.

Here's the list. I've highlighted some of the ones that stuck with me. Looks like 2011 and 2012 were fat years, relatively speaking, and 2010 and 2013 comparatively lean.

2010
1. The Mismeasure of Man (and essays), by Stephen Jay Gould
2. Surely You're Joking, Mr. Feynman!, by Richard Feynman
3. A House for Mr. Biswas, by V.S. Naipaul
4. A Stillness at Appomattox, by Bruce Catton (second or third time)
5. The Lost Books of the Odyssey, by Zachary Mason
6. Speak, Memory, by Vladimir Nabokov
7. Applied Nutrition for Mixed Sports, by Lyle McDonald
8. Blind Willow, Sleeping Woman, by Haruki Murakami
9. The Looming Tower, by Lawrence Wright
10. Sherlock Holmes: The Complete Stories, Volume 2, by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle
11. Silk Parachute, by John McPhee
12. All the King's Men, by Robert Penn Warren
13. The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo, by Stieg Larsson
14. The Girl Who Played With Fire, by Stieg Larsson
15. Encounters with the Archdruid, by John McPhee
16. The Girl Who Kicked the Hornet's Nest, by Stieg Larsson
17. Freedom, by Jonathan Franzen
18. Stretch to Win, by Ann and Chris Frederick
19. The Wonderful Story of Henry Sugar (and Six More), by Roald Dahl (again)
20. Me Talk Pretty One Day, by David Sedaris
21. The Lost City of Z, by David Grann
22. An Anthropologist on Mars, by Oliver Sacks
23. Kafka on the Shore, by Haruki Murakami
24. Bloodlands, by Timothy Snyder

2011
1. Aeschylus, Agamemnon
2. Virgil, The Aeneid
3. David Simon, The Wire (TV show but I'm counting it, shut up)
4. Patti Smith, Just Kids
5. Plato, The Apology of Socrates and Crito
6. Mikhail Bulgakov, The Master and Margarita
7. Michael Chabon, Maps and Legends
8. Frank Miller, The Dark Knight Returns
9. Anton Chekhov, The Duel
10. Ian Fleming, Casino Royale (shut up, it's a classic, plus I needed a break from Devils)
11. Arthur Rimbaud, Illuminations
12. Jane Jacobs, The Death and Life of Great American Cities
13. John McPhee, The Curve of Binding Energy
14. Joseph Conrad, Heart of Darkness
15. Robert Alter (translation and commentary), Genesis 
16. John O'Hara, Appointment in Samarra 
17. Steven Mitchell (translation and commentary), Job (twice in a row)
18. William Strunk and E.B. White, The Elements of Style
19. Philip K. Dick, A Scanner Darkly 
20. Alan Paton, Cry, the Beloved Country

2012
1. Annals of the Former World, by John McPhee
2. Strength in What Remains, by Tracy Kidder
3. How to Live, Or, A Life of Montaigne in One Question and Twenty Attempts at an Answer, by Sarah Bakewell
4. In Cold Blood, by Truman Capote*
5. The Control of Nature, by John McPhee*
6. Mr. Wilson's Cabinet of Wonder, by Lawrence Weschler
7. Wise Blood, by Flannery O'Connor*
8. A Good Man is Hard to Find, by Flannery O'Connor*
9. The Violent Bear It Away, by Flannery O'Connor*
10. Pakistan, A Hard Country, by Anatol Lieven
11. Awakenings, by Oliver Sacks*
12. Freakonomics, by Stevens Levitt and Dubner#
13. Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy, by John LeCarre*
14. The Russia House, by John LeCarre#
15. Hail to the Victors, ed. by Brian Cook
16. The Cave, by Jose Saramago#
17. The Great Gatsby, by F. Scott Fitzgerald*
18. Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, by Jonathan Berendt
19. Skinny Dip, by Carl Hiaasen
20. The Quiet American, by Graham Greene*
21. Pale Fire, by Vladimir Nabokov*
22. Irons in the Fire, by John McPhee (again)
23. Tombstone, by Yang Jisheng
24. The Book of Job, trans. by Stephen Mitchell (again)*
25. The White Hotel, by D.M. Thomas
26. The Monster of Florence, by Douglas Preston and Mario Spezi
27. The 50 Funniest American Writers, by Andy Borowitz
28. The Leopard, by Jo Nesbo

2013
1. Wolf Hall, by Hilary Mantel
2. The Art of War, by Sun Tzu
3. The Age of Wonder, by Richard Holmes
4. Bring Up the Bodies, by Hilary Mantel
5. Godel, Escher, Bach: An Eternal Golden Braid, by Douglas Hofstadter
6. Some Hope: A Trilogy, by Edwin St. Aubyn
7. The Illustrated Man, by Ray Bradbury
8. The Spider's House, by Paul Bowles
9. Cuba Libre, by Elmore Leonard
10. The Human Factor, by Graham Greene
11. Liar's Poker, by Michael Lewis
12. The Places in Between, by Rory Stewart
13. Going Clear, by Lawrence Wright
14. The Hobbit, by JRR Tolkein (maybe third or fourth time but first in years)
15. The Spy Who Came in from the Cold, by John Le Carre
16. Becoming a Supple Leopard, by Kelly Starrett
17. Smiley's People, by John LeCarre
18. The Sound of Things Falling, by Juan Gabriel Vasquez
19. Through the Eye of a Needle, by Peter Brown
20. Discipline and Punish, by Michel Foucault
21. The Honourable Schoolboy, by John Le Carre
22. Oryx and Crake, by Margaret Atwood
23. Game of Thrones, by George R.R. Martin

nine pm

I picked Taksim as the neighborhood to stay on the recommendation of my friend Erol, who said it's the happening neighborhood for young people. That is no doubt the case, but I haven't met anyone yet -- the hostel is not exactly a happening spot and I didn't go out of my way to talk to English speakers I overheard throughout the day -- and frankly, after undersleeping last night and nine hours of walking around today, I'm just going to pack it in.

What a day, though. What a city! Istanbul lives up to the hype. I walked down Istiklal Caddasi (street) to the Bosphorus and then crossed the bridge. I knew from the map the guy at the hostel gave me, and from talking to Erol and others, that the main sights are all pretty close together. So I just picked the first big, old, mosque-looking building I saw and walked in. Turned out to be the New Mosque (ca. 1650). Gorgeous, lesser-known than its sibling the Blue Mosque. But I'm getting ahead of myself. I took my shoes off and walked into the main hall of the New Mosque. It's gorgeous. This became a theme.

After a few minutes gaping, I walked back out into the sunlight and across a small courtyard to the Spice Bazaar. Wandered around, checking out the spice wholesalers and all the other shops hawking their wares. It's crowded and close but not overwhelming at all. Not that I'm easily overwhelmed by crowds or chaos, I guess, but it felt orderly somehow. I wandered out and then walked around trying to find my next destination. This turned out to be the Topkapi Palace museum. Twenty bucks later and I was again agape, exploring the huge grounds, many buildings, and staggering objets d'art that the Topkapi offers. Some of the stuff is incredibly cool. They've got 500-year-old caftans worn by Ottoman sultans, jewel-encrusted cups and scabbards and tons else, ebony thrones with mother-of-pearl inlay, gifts from faraway rulers like the Chinese and Russians. And then a whole wing dedicated to relics and other religious objects: the sword of King David (yes, that King David), Abraham's sauce pan (yes, that Abraham), Moses's staff (you get the idea), the Prophet's swords and bow, and on and on! Like all relics the provenance is a little dubious, but they make no allowances of that kind in the displays. David's sword is dated as ca. 10th century BC. Abraham's sauce pan as ca. 19th century BC. They've also got old pieces of the Kaaba in there.

Objet'd out, I made my over to the highlight of the Topkapi: the harem. Turns out this refers not just to the concubines who kept the sultan happy and bore him children, but to the whole private residence of the sultan and his retinue: concubines, his mother, his sons, his eunuchs watching over everything. The architecture and decoration in this part are just unreal. There was a lot of gasping.

After that I visited the big brother of the New Mosque, the Blue Mosque. It's similar just bigger and more spectacular. The Hagia Sophia is closed on Mondays so I went to the Grand Bazaar. It is Borgesian in its apparent infinitude. There are points inside where it doesn't seem to end, but rather to repeat in all directions like a fractal. I successfully avoided buying anything that I don't need, although I did stop for tea at a cafe with wifi, so I could check to see whether my colleague Kishwar had written back about dinner. He had not. I moved on.

More wandering took me to a little cafe, where I sat outside and drank some hot spiced red wine. Finally I retraced my steps, more or less, and ended up back on Istiklal. Had dinner at a restaurant that TripAdvisor recommended, called Faros. It was good but extremely generic: convert the prices to USD and you could plop the whole thing down in any decent-sized city in the US and it would not be out of place. I had tagliatelle with chicken and mushrooms and rocket salad with the largest sheets of parmesan I've ever seen tented over the top and drizzled with balsamic vinegar. And a beer. Like I said, tasty but unexceptional.

And now I'm back in the hostel, it's 9:20 PM, and I think I'm going to watch an episode of Sherlock or some other movie and call it an evening. I'll head to the airport around 10 tomorrow morning and be back in DC by dinnertime. What a trip!

is-tan-bul

Arrived safe and sound at the Green House Hostel after a longish taksi ride. Istanbul is huge. Driving into it from the airport is like a cross between San Francisco, New York, and Karachi, but really comparisons fail. Just grabbed some breakfast and my first Turkish Turkish coffee, picked up a map, and in a second I'm going to put my shoes on and head out for the Hagia/Haya/Aya Sophia/Sofia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi, etc. The day is cool and sunny. 

last tango in tajikistan

The cabs here run along numbered routes, although, as I learned, those routes are inconsistent or at least sometimes unintelligible to the likes of me. After a lazy Sunday morning I hopped in a number 8 cab en route to the Ismaili Center Dushanbe. It took me a few minutes to find the entrance to the compound, which is surrounded by walls and gates. Eventually, I picked up a visitor's badge and walked in. Outside the building are some nice gardens, where young Tajiks were sitting around in small groups. One kid had a guitar.

A woman met me at the entrance with a clipboard and I said, hopefully, "I'm here for a tour?" Turns out I was the only person there for that purpose so off we went. The building is gorgeous and very functional. Lots of interesting Central Asian features, geometric calligraphy everywhere saying, "Allah hu akbar," and, "La illaha il allah," and giving the names of the prophet's family. Beautiful handpainted tiles from Uzbekistan, hand-carved roof beams and wood screens from Tajikistan. The prayer hall (jamat khana) itself seats up to 1500 people, mostly just on the carpet.

I had a bit of an adventure coming back: It turns out that the small car cabs and the van-sized cabs run along different routes, even if they're the same number. Ignorant of that fact, I jumped in a number 8 van across from the ICD. It went...not to the Serena. Still ignorant of the differing routes, I figured if I just took it to the end of the line it would turn around and come back, no problem. So that's what I did. An interesting way to see Dushanbe, lots of stops and starts for people to get on and off at this market and that. I got out in a parking lot with many number 8 vans, and got into one parked pointing back the way we'd come. It filled up, maybe 12 passengers, and then we took off. But not by the Serena, either. I started just keeping my eyes peeled for a building I recognized in the distance, and eventually I spotted the hideous wedding cake buildings and tugged on the toll-taker's sleeve to get the van to stop and let me out. It was a nice day and the walk back to the hotel from there was pleasant enough. I felt like running, actually, somehow I was very primed and full of energy.

Once back in my room I did some work, went to the gym for half an hour or so, ate dinner and then met my old colleague Noor for a drink. We just parted ways and I'm writing this post to procrastinate packing. It was nice to see him, hear how he's doing, what his plans are -- he's applying to grad schools in the States, UK and Germany for next year. It's always interesting to get a different perspective on our internal politics. He also had a really generous compliment for me, that apparently people at Focus were always amazed at how calm I was; despite however much work, tight deadlines, poor communication, whatever, I never seemed stressed or took out my frustration or stress on anyone else. He said I was a role model for him in that way (!). I'm not sure how exactly I'm that way but it was nice of him to say.

Anyway, now I really do have to pack. Leaving in 5 hours for the airport and I'd like to get a few winks at least before hitting the road.

Weather for Istanbul tomorrow: mid-50s and mostly sunny. I'm ready.

saturday

Had a three-hour meeting today to follow up on yesterday afternoon's kicker. It was good, got some clarity and things are maybe not quite as dire as they seemed. Gotta write a quick email in a bit to just explain how it went and maybe temper yesterday's email update a little.

After it was over I had lunch and then went on a nice long walk down Rudaki Avenue with Kate. It's beautiful outside, probably 70 degrees and sunny. We didn't find what we were looking for -- nice tchotchkes to bring home for AKF USA's Christmas presents and a pair of shorts to replace my now crotch-holey pair -- but that's alright. It was good to get out of the hotel and into the fresh air.

Other than that email I mentioned I don't feel like doing much today. Picked up a few movies on a flash drive from Liz yesterday and will give one a go a bit later on. Gym. Dinner. Reading. Yeah. 

meetings, meetings, and more meetings

Yesterday, I had seven meetings. Today I had two but they were the most important of the whole trip. Today's were the most stressful of the whole trip, though, so it feels like I had another seven. That doesn't even count the pre-meetings and post-meetings I had with Liz and Amin. The last was the biggest of all, with USAID. Liz described it well afterward: The feeling was like watching an episode of "Homeland," where by the end you feel guilty and anxious even though you've just been sitting on your couch. The meeting was very productive but there was a lot of mixed news and, even though it's not even close to my fault and even though I represented well if I may say so myself, afterward I was filled with anxiety about how to share things with the higher-ups. It's going to take a little while to digest all the information we got and see how it all fits together.

Also, last night I was up very late working on the work plan for one of my projects, so I didn't get enough sleep. On the plus side, it's been really nice hanging out with the group of colleagues who are here right now. We went out to the awesomely-named Public Pub the night before last and had some weird chicken sandwiches and the first cheese-stick based veggie burger I've ever come across. We also did a fun game where everyone bought the drinks of the person to their right. I was hacking up a storm so my left-hand neighbor bought me mulled wine with honey. Very sweet (both senses)(corny). There was a bunch of shouting and explosions at one point but it turned out the military is just drilling for its parade during tomorrow's inauguration.

Last night we just had dinner here in the Serena, but it was a good time. Lots of laughter. I forewent the wine in order to be able to focus on work when I got back to my room.

In short, an exhausting end to the trip. Or maybe just a brain-frying end. I don't feel that tired but I think I'm probably operating a little slower than usual right now. A few more meetings over the next couple of days but I'll also get some time to go shopping and see the Ismaili Center, which is apparently an architectural marvel. Then Istanbul (!) and then home (!). Can't wait.

the honourable schoolby and oryx and crake

Just finished Oryx and Crake. Last week finished Honourable Schoolboy. Both super enjoyable, Oryx and Crake more interesting. Will read the rest of the MaddAddam series in the not-too-distant future, I think. 

omar khayyam

Whether at Naishapur or Babylon,
Whether the cup with sweet
Or bitter run,
The wine of life keeps oozing
Drop by drop,
The leaves of life keep falling
One by one.

On my pillow this morning. Gotta run now, more later.

looks like driving weather

After three straight days of beautiful, sunny skies, today dawns cloudy and with a chance of snow. Come on, helicopter! But it looks like driving weather. Oh well.

UPDATE: It's driving weather. They're prepping the car and then we'll be off. On the plus side, we're going to do the whole thing in one go, so I'll be back in Dushanbe tonight. That makes sense, it's much easier to drive on the other side of the mountains and then down in the plains at night than it is over here. 

viyod, tizhmoy and pidrud

After a bit of a comedy-of-errors start to the day -- the guy who stamps visas in the Afghan consulate was sick so the PE staff had to send someone out to find him, then it turned out Oistamo's visa had expired four days ago so she couldn't cross -- Jamshed from PE and I crossed the Tem bridge on foot around 11 AM today. A guy in a beat-up but resilient and surprisingly smooth Hi-Ace picked us up on the Afghan side and we were on our way to visit the three "villages" (really two villages and one loosely unified area with a bunch of sub-villages in it) that PE connected to the grid under the previous USAID project.

First we stopped in Sarchashma, which is the district center and which you can see from the Serena in Khorog, to register with the police and to get our walking-around papers, which consisted of the Shugnan District governor's business card. We also got some bread and this weird cream stuff that comes in a juice box but that you can spread -- it's good, I feel like I've seen it in Latin America, too -- for lunch in lieu of real food. I would not eat the real food over there unless my life depended on it. No sirree.

We bounced up the road to see transformers and go in a couple of people's houses in Tizhmoy and Pidrud villages, to the north. Jamshed's English isn't great, but it's good enough and he was patient and game and, like everyone else at PE, is pretty good-natured. I took lots of pictures, both of the stuff I was there to see (transformers, meters, toaster ovens, TVs, light bulbs, people using those things) and of the landscape. It was a spectacular day and the light up here when the sun's out is like the light in late evening at home on a very sunny day when everything looks a bit polarized. But all day.

Then we drove down to Viyod by way of Sarchashma, where we picked up the elected leader of Viyod and a local mullah who lives there. More transformers and lines, more pictures, including a group shot of me with the various men who had attached themselves to the trip -- a guy from DABS, the Afghan utility and assorted others -- and then the mullah invited us up into the chaikhona for some tea and snacks, which had been laid out for us. It was getting late but we went up, of course. We really did drink and run, though, because Jamshed was worried about the border closing before we could cross back. Not for lack of trying to keep us on the part of our hosts.

On our way back up to the car we went to one other house, and as we were leaving it the mullah stopped and told Jamshed he wanted to make a prayer in honor of our visit. Which he then did, thanking god and the Aga Khan and Pamir Energy and me and asking that I and my children be blessed by god, and then chanting for quite a long time in (at least partially) Arabic. I asked Jamshed to thank him for his generosity and hospitality as my host and that I hope god also blesses him and his family.

As we were piling back into the car the village head, whose name is Bakhtojomol, made a last-ditch effort to Jamshed to get us to stay and eat. Apparently they were going to slaughter a chicken and I guess we'd have spent the night. Jamshed handled it like a pro, though, explaining that I'm sick (true although not THAT sick) and that I have to leave for Dushanbe tomorrow (also true) while avoiding pissing anyone off that I could tell.

We made it across the bridge with less than 10 minutes to spare.

Back at the office Oistamo had gotten some food from the Indian place in town and we partook right then and there. I was hungry. Jamshed took his leave and Oistamo and Mehrafruz and I sat talking for a while longer. We finally left around 7:45.

Now it's 9:30 and I'm going to call it a night pretty soon. Fingers crossed extremely hard for good weather tomorrow so the heli can fly. If it doesn't I'm going to have to drive and I'm not relishing that prospect. Hope outside my control. 

sunday brunch at the serena

In no particular order:

Iran's Foreign Minister sounds infinitely more reasonable and grounded in reality than anyone from the USG or (needless to say) Netanyahu's government.

Typhoon Haiyan...holy shit.

Raw vegetables...when will I learn my lesson?

Past couple of days have gone well although I continue coughing. Friday and Saturday morning were very productive. My training on working with USAID went over really well, I think. The PE staff asked lots of questions and were very engaged throughout, which is a good sign. Notably, I felt extremely comfortable giving the talk and answering questions, which is a great feeling and not at all how it was last year with Satpara in Pakistan. And for that one I even had Caryn with me. Partially that's just because PE folks are friendly, as I know I've said before.

After we finished yesterday, Oistamo, Mehrafruz, another PE colleague and I went to lunch at the same place as Friday. The food was better this time: borscht and pounded-flat steak with legitimately good french fries. Fun conversation again, it's interesting to see the differences between Mehrafruz and Oistamo. Mehrafruz is much more traditional -- believes in heaven and hell and believes morality is tied to your punishment or reward in the next life, believes men and women can't be friends without attraction -- while Oistamo is much less so. We talked at dinner on Friday night about atheism. They were both surprised that I don't believe in god, but Oistamo thinks that when we die, that's it. No soul. I found that kind of interesting, that she would believe in a god but not in souls.

Last night I was getting ready to read, do some bodyweight exercises, and watch the only worthwhile English-language channel on the dial here, BBC World News, but my shot-in-the-dark email to a colleague at AKF Afghanistan panned out when she wrote me back with her cell phone number and said she was going over to some friends' for dinner and why don't I come over? I jumped, obviously, as much because I figured it might help me find an activity to do today as anything else. The hotel night duty lady called a cab and we had a very awkward four-way, two-phone interaction trying to communicate to the driver about where we needed to go. The conversation apparently failed, because we drove to the market area, then pulled back into a rabbit warren of alleys behind the Soviet-era apartment buildings where the middle class and expats live. No one here is rich, as far as I can tell.

The driver stopped behind a seemingly random building, got out and called my colleague Tahira's cell phone. Then he came back over and gestured for me to start walking with him. So we continued through the rabbit warren on foot, with the guy checking buildings periodically, asking the few people around outside where the foreigners live, following their gestures, calling Tahira back and grunting into the phone to Tahira's friend who speaks Russian, and walking some more. Finally I took the guy's phone and called her myself, and she said she'd come downstairs to meet us and asked what was around us. So after about ten minutes of searching, we made it. I was going to give the guy a bit of extra cash because he'd done so much walking around and calling on my behalf, but Tahira said he was incredibly rude to her friend so she just gave him the fare and we went upstairs.

Dinner was tasty if vegetarian. Nice to have some home-made food with well-cooked vegetables, and good company. Coming home was much easier.

This morning I got a chance to Skype with Dad, which was great. Then I did a little work, did some bodyweight exercises and stretching just get the juices flowing a little after wayyyyy too many days without any exercise, showered, and read. Last night's crew showed up plus a couple of guys from OSCE who were here doing election monitoring. They're on their way home but came by the Serena for one last brunch. The food was good -- Pamiris do breakfast much better than they do other meals, as far as I've experienced -- and again nice conversation.

Now I'm sitting in the common area while they clean my room. My social activity itch has been scratched so I'll spend the rest of the day happily plugging away at work, exercising and stretching some more, etc. 

khorog

This morning's helicopter ride was a success, after some drama in the airport because it was a full, 11-passenger flight, the weight limit is 15kg per person, and some people were over capacity. The guy who's in charge of checking people in for the helicopter -- no idea who he works for or what the rest of his job is -- was being very severe. Mehrafruz, Oistamo and Jamshed met me at the airport (and the driver, whose name I forget) and we drove first to the Serena to drop off my suitcase, then to a pharmacy to get some cough syrup, and finally to the office. By then it was lunchtime so Jamshed, Mehrafruz, this lovely older guy Mike (forget his Tajik name but he lives in Staten Island and goes by Mike in the States), and the driver went out to lunch. Jamshed made a special request for the music to be the Scorpions, who did "Dust in the Wind," and are apparently both German and very popular in Tajikistan. Not my cup of tea.

After lunch we did real work, going through and pretty much finishing the performance monitoring plan and making very good headway on the work plan, as well. Tomorrow I'm going to give a presentation on working with USAID and then I'll spend the rest of the day working on some of other documents we have to get ready.

My cough was bad again today after dying down last night, and despite last night being my first solid unaided night's sleep of the trip. Now I've got a headache, to boot, which is mild to the point of not noticing except if I squeeze my eyes shut or look left or right. I did manage to get my hands on some robitussin-equivalent, which I guess helped with the cough. Will take some more tomorrow and hope for the best. But it has phenylephrine in it so definitely not touching it so near bed. The other syrup they got me is apparently just straight ephedrine, which, again, not touching with a 10-foot pole at 8 PM.

Khorog is beautiful right now. It's cold but not very cold. The poplars, which are everywhere, are in full fall orange-and-yellow blast, and it's late enough in the year that the mountains have serious snow caps. On Sunday I'll take some of the day off and hopefully get to walk around and see some sights, even if it's just ones I've already seen. A trip across the Panj is looking likely for Monday afternoon.

I like the PE staff a lot, they're very easy to work with and very friendly. Oistamo, Mehrafruz and I just got dinner (inconsistent Oxford comma use! but I'm not editing it) at a funny restaurant in a basement but done up to look like a pleasure garden, with lattice work overhead and fake grape vines and grapes hanging down, a pool and tree and walls painted withe a bucolic scene.

One other thing to report: Saw a new fruit today. Skin smooth like an apple and yellow like a schoolbus. Flesh dark orange and in texture seemed to be like a plum, but there are seeds instead of a pit. I didn't touch any because I'm immunocompromised and would prefer to avoid admitting any more strange microbes than strictly necessary.

Now I'm gonna do a bit more work, finish unpacking, and call it a night.