The cabs here run along numbered routes, although, as I learned, those routes are inconsistent or at least sometimes unintelligible to the likes of me. After a lazy Sunday morning I hopped in a number 8 cab en route to the Ismaili Center Dushanbe. It took me a few minutes to find the entrance to the compound, which is surrounded by walls and gates. Eventually, I picked up a visitor's badge and walked in. Outside the building are some nice gardens, where young Tajiks were sitting around in small groups. One kid had a guitar.
A woman met me at the entrance with a clipboard and I said, hopefully, "I'm here for a tour?" Turns out I was the only person there for that purpose so off we went. The building is gorgeous and very functional. Lots of interesting Central Asian features, geometric calligraphy everywhere saying, "Allah hu akbar," and, "La illaha il allah," and giving the names of the prophet's family. Beautiful handpainted tiles from Uzbekistan, hand-carved roof beams and wood screens from Tajikistan. The prayer hall (jamat khana) itself seats up to 1500 people, mostly just on the carpet.
I had a bit of an adventure coming back: It turns out that the small car cabs and the van-sized cabs run along different routes, even if they're the same number. Ignorant of that fact, I jumped in a number 8 van across from the ICD. It went...not to the Serena. Still ignorant of the differing routes, I figured if I just took it to the end of the line it would turn around and come back, no problem. So that's what I did. An interesting way to see Dushanbe, lots of stops and starts for people to get on and off at this market and that. I got out in a parking lot with many number 8 vans, and got into one parked pointing back the way we'd come. It filled up, maybe 12 passengers, and then we took off. But not by the Serena, either. I started just keeping my eyes peeled for a building I recognized in the distance, and eventually I spotted the hideous wedding cake buildings and tugged on the toll-taker's sleeve to get the van to stop and let me out. It was a nice day and the walk back to the hotel from there was pleasant enough. I felt like running, actually, somehow I was very primed and full of energy.
Once back in my room I did some work, went to the gym for half an hour or so, ate dinner and then met my old colleague Noor for a drink. We just parted ways and I'm writing this post to procrastinate packing. It was nice to see him, hear how he's doing, what his plans are -- he's applying to grad schools in the States, UK and Germany for next year. It's always interesting to get a different perspective on our internal politics. He also had a really generous compliment for me, that apparently people at Focus were always amazed at how calm I was; despite however much work, tight deadlines, poor communication, whatever, I never seemed stressed or took out my frustration or stress on anyone else. He said I was a role model for him in that way (!). I'm not sure how exactly I'm that way but it was nice of him to say.
Anyway, now I really do have to pack. Leaving in 5 hours for the airport and I'd like to get a few winks at least before hitting the road.
Weather for Istanbul tomorrow: mid-50s and mostly sunny. I'm ready.
A woman met me at the entrance with a clipboard and I said, hopefully, "I'm here for a tour?" Turns out I was the only person there for that purpose so off we went. The building is gorgeous and very functional. Lots of interesting Central Asian features, geometric calligraphy everywhere saying, "Allah hu akbar," and, "La illaha il allah," and giving the names of the prophet's family. Beautiful handpainted tiles from Uzbekistan, hand-carved roof beams and wood screens from Tajikistan. The prayer hall (jamat khana) itself seats up to 1500 people, mostly just on the carpet.
I had a bit of an adventure coming back: It turns out that the small car cabs and the van-sized cabs run along different routes, even if they're the same number. Ignorant of that fact, I jumped in a number 8 van across from the ICD. It went...not to the Serena. Still ignorant of the differing routes, I figured if I just took it to the end of the line it would turn around and come back, no problem. So that's what I did. An interesting way to see Dushanbe, lots of stops and starts for people to get on and off at this market and that. I got out in a parking lot with many number 8 vans, and got into one parked pointing back the way we'd come. It filled up, maybe 12 passengers, and then we took off. But not by the Serena, either. I started just keeping my eyes peeled for a building I recognized in the distance, and eventually I spotted the hideous wedding cake buildings and tugged on the toll-taker's sleeve to get the van to stop and let me out. It was a nice day and the walk back to the hotel from there was pleasant enough. I felt like running, actually, somehow I was very primed and full of energy.
Once back in my room I did some work, went to the gym for half an hour or so, ate dinner and then met my old colleague Noor for a drink. We just parted ways and I'm writing this post to procrastinate packing. It was nice to see him, hear how he's doing, what his plans are -- he's applying to grad schools in the States, UK and Germany for next year. It's always interesting to get a different perspective on our internal politics. He also had a really generous compliment for me, that apparently people at Focus were always amazed at how calm I was; despite however much work, tight deadlines, poor communication, whatever, I never seemed stressed or took out my frustration or stress on anyone else. He said I was a role model for him in that way (!). I'm not sure how exactly I'm that way but it was nice of him to say.
Anyway, now I really do have to pack. Leaving in 5 hours for the airport and I'd like to get a few winks at least before hitting the road.
Weather for Istanbul tomorrow: mid-50s and mostly sunny. I'm ready.
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